Hungary April 19 – 27 2005

This is a short report of a birding trip to Hungary in April 2005 by Richard Dunn and Alan Jack.

EasyJet introduced a cheap flight to Budapest from Newcastle at the beginning of April 2005 so we booked in advance to take advantage of this our first Eastern Europe trip.

April 19 Tuesday

The flight was delayed for 15 minutes on take off but due to favourable conditions we arrived ahead of schedule at Budapest where the representative of the car hire firm was waiting for us, and after completing the seemingly endless forms we had our car, a Fiat Brava with many kms on it, after having new cars on the past few trips it was odd to have a “used” one. After familiarizing ourselves with driving on the wrong side we were on our way out on to the road outside the airport and keeping to the right lane missed the main road and ended up lost in Budapest we were driving along next to the road we wanted to be on but there was no way to get back on to it. Alan asked a taxi driver the way and he said for a price (5000huf) that he would lead us until we were back on to the correct road in the end we didn’t pay him but he did take us to a junction got out of the car and pointed us on the right course. A stop at a petrol station to fill up and buy a motorway pass and away we go. Stopped for a McDonalds meal on the motorway where a girlie in a parked car flashed her chest at Alan, this I missed as I was too busy stuffing in a burger!

Arrived in Eger after midnight having been unable to locate the hotel in Mezokovesd that we had arranged to stay at in the end we stayed at the first hotel we found that had a night desk the 3 star Hotel Flora.

April 20 Wednesday

Up nice and early and its raining, hard, very hard (watching the TV news, it showed Miskolc and swollen rivers and roads that had been swept away and a JCB digging graves, I didn’t understand as obviously it was in Hungarian but I got the gist of it) . Due to the inclement weather a trip to the buffet breakfast was added to the days itinerary were we raided the tables and made lunch for the day ahead or in Alan’s case two days ahead.

After an hour or so the rain eased off so we headed up the road. First stop was at a park on out skirts of Felstokarney and this proved to be excellent with two male Collared Flycatcher and a Middle Spotted Woodpecker seen as well as Hawfinch (this was VERY common in most wooded areas) but on the first stop on the first morning it was excellent. From here up into the Bukk Hills towards Miskolc to a small car parking area at approximately Km 17.5 and as we drove in had a Grey-headed Woodpecker fly up from the ground and a pied woodpecker fly over which turned out to be a Great Spotted. We headed off up the track and came to a picnic area (Middle Spotted Woodpecker) and took the path to the right off a shelter and went down hill for only 100 meters or so and stopped to look and listen. From where I was stood I saw a large grey bird fly in and land behind a tree, Alan could see the bird from where he was stood; Ural Owl, say it again, Ural Owl. Fantastic we did a merry jig, but the owl was having none of that and it flew, blast. We walked down the track (it had flown off down the track) for some way but no luck and nothing else either so we headed back only to find the Ural Owl again then TWO Ural Owls, this was brilliant. Two of the target birds in the first two hours. We left them in peace as they looked wet and probably hadn’t fed during the night due to the rain. Walking back to the car a slightly different route and there were a pair of Lesser Spotted Woodpecker and we could still hear the Grey-headed Woodpecker. Leaving here the rain started again and set in for the rest of the day. We had planned to stay at a room at Camping Baradla in the Aggtelek National park but on arrival this turned out to be a Youth Hostel type accommodation and it was packed with youths (strange) as Alan is a very light sleeper and these kids were very noisy we abandoned this place and headed to Josvafo and stayed overnight at a Panzio in the village which cost 2000huf.

April 21 Thursday

I was up early but just watching from the room window, Tree Sparrow Jay and Great Spotted Woodpecker seen of note. From the village we took one of the tracks and went up the valley into the wooded hills were we had Collared Flycatcher and heard then saw poorly a Black Woodpecker. It was cool up here and as we walked over a small hill from one valley to the next it snowed briefly. Back at the village even though we had just had snow there were Common Swift House Martins and Swallows. From Josvafo we drove on to the hills and woods at Szogliget where we drove through an open barrier which was locked when we came back! Luckily the guy with the key was close by, here we had two very good looks at Black Woodpecker. From here up to the Slovakian border then across and on to the Zemplen hills. On route we had a single male Montagu’s Harrier and our only Syrian Woodpecker of the trip. Once we were in the Zemplen we saw a Lesser Spotted Eagle and at the same time an Imperial Eagle just down the road from Erdobenye, where we stayed overnight at the Hotel Magita www.hotels.hu
Commonest bird all day; Hawfinch they were everywhere.

April 22 Friday

In and around the Zemplen hills nearly all day, the whole of the area was virtually bird less although we again saw Imperial Eagle and Lesser Spotted Eagle. A drive along the edge of the vast River Bodrog flood plain gave us Black and White Storks, Redshank, Pintail and the first Marsh Harriers. On the way back through the Zemplen Hills we had good views of Wryneck. Overnight at the Hotel Magita in Erdobenye.

April 23 Saturday

Leaving the hills behind a perched raptor turned out be, we thought a Steppe Buzzard (back home and looking at my pictures and field guides I’m not sure) and while grilling this a ring-tail Hen Harrier flew through. From here headed for Tokaj and then to Tiszatardos only to find that the ferry was not working due to high water so took a different longer route to Köröm only for that ferry not to be working either we eventually crossed the river and ended up on the road to the Hortobágyi and 1st stop was at Ohat, excellent place with some very good birds, White-tailed Eagle, Crane, Osprey, loads of Ferruginous Duck, a Smew and a nesting colony that had Great White Egret, Spoonbill, Night Heron and Pygmy Cormorant. From here along to the famous Hortobágyi - halastó fish pond complex, best here on our very short visit, 7 Whimbrel and approximately 120 Ruff. By now dusk was approaching so we then headed towards Tiszafüred via a small roadside wood with lots of Rooks, a few Jackdaws, a Tawny Owl and 12 Red-footed Falcons, which were very vocal and territorial. Overnight at Panzio Aurum in Tiszafüred.

April 24 Sunday

A good nights sleep for me but Alan (who is a light sleeper) was kept awake for most of the night by barking dogs. First stop today was the small wood with the Red-footed Falcons, which yet again were very entertaining, then on to Ohat, White-spotted Bluethroat. Then on to Hortobágyi to do the place thoroughly, the place is VAST the Gosney guide is misleading in that he talks of driving the place and parking at spots, the tracks mentioned are just walkable there is no way you could take a car along them, it also implies by his map that there are pools either side of a central track where as in fact there are two tracks through and the ponds are 3 wide, if you drive through the village to a large building by rail tracks there is a drivable track through the pools but the gate is only open 8am – 4pm Monday to Friday and its locked prompt at 4pm regardless of any cars still in there, we didn’t have the choice its Sunday the gate is locked. We did see some cracking birds here, Penduline Tit, 80+ Great White Egrets on one pool, White-spotted Bluethroat, White-tailed Eagle and Pygmy Cormorant and at least 1000 Ruff. From here to Nagyiván in the hope of Aquatic Warbler, these are in the reserve area which you cant enter unless you have a guide and THE guide is Dr Gabor Kovacs and as we had been unable to contact him ( it would appear that unless you use Gerald Gorman’s ProBirder or Sakertours you have no chance of independent contact) we would just drive the tracks in the area. We saw a flock of 9 Great Bustards, Montagu’s Harrier, Red-footed Falcon, Hobby, Stone Curlew, Whinchat and Tawny Pipit. From here back to Panzio Aurum at Tiszafüred, where Alan had a different room away from the dogs and a late dinner at the restaurant up the street, were the friendly English speaking waiter tried to rip us off with the change (none) then a stroll back down the street and a Bittern could be heard calling.





April 25 Monday



Bizarre sort of day today, set of in search of Long-legged Buzzard and ended up flying home two days early; we had become very disillusioned with the lack of birds, In areas between places there was nothing not one bird, stop and scan you could see miles and there was nothing. The weather today was poor with rain and a howling gale which didn’t help. Mid afternoon and we’d had enough, gave in, a dash to the airport to pay a small fortune to change the flights and we were on our way back.



In hindsight we were too early in the season. I was frustrated by the lack of any answers to emails from the pro guides before we left in the hope of finding a guide for Aquatic Warbler. If you don’t want to use guides there are some species you just will not get. 141 species seen I will go back but later and bite the bullet and use a guide.



Species



Little Grebe (Tachybaptus ruficollis)

Great Crested Grebe (Podiceps cristatus)

Pygmy Cormorant (Phalacrocorax pygmeus)

Great Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo)

Little Egret (Egretta garzetta)

Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea)

Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea)

Great White Egret (Ardea alba)

Night Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax)

Great Bittern (Botaurus stellaris)

Black Stork (Ciconia nigra)

White Stork (Ciconia ciconia)

Spoonbill (Platalea leucorodia)

Whooper Swan (Cygnus cygnus)

Greylag Goose (Anser anser)

Eurasian Wigeon (Anas penelope)

Gadwall (Anas strepera)

Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos)

Pintail (Anas acuta)

Garganey (Anas querquedula)

Shoveler (Anas clypeata)

Common Pochard (Aythya ferina)

Ferruginous Duck (Aythya nyroca)

Tufted Duck (Aythya fuligula)

Smew (Mergellus albellus)

White-tailed Eagle (Haliaeetus albicilla)

Marsh Harrier (Circus aeruginosus)

Hen Harrier (Circus cyaneus)

Montagu's Harrier (Circus pygargus)

Sparrowhawk (Accipiter nisus)

Common Buzzard (Buteo buteo)

Lesser Spotted Eagle (Aquila pomarina)

Imperial Eagle (Aquila heliaca)

Osprey (Pandion haliaetus)

Common Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus)

Red-footed Falcon (Falco vespertinus)

Hobby (Falco subbuteo)

Pheasant (Phasianus colchicus)

Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus)

Common Coot (Fulica atra)

Common Crane (Grus grus)

Great Bustard (Otis tarda)

Black-winged Stilt (Himantopus himantopus)

Stone-curlew (Burhinus oedicnemus)

Lapwing (Vanellus vanellus)

Black-tailed Godwit (Limosa limosa)

Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus)

Eurasian Curlew (Numenius arquata)

Spotted Redshank (Tringa erythropus)

Common Redshank (Tringa totanus)

Wood Sandpiper (Tringa glareola)

Common Sandpiper (Actitis hypoleucos

Dunlin (Calidris alpina)

Ruff (Philomachus pugnax)

Great Black-backed Gull (Larus marinus)

Herring Gull (Larus argentatus sp.)

Black-headed Gull (Larus ridibundus)

Little Gull (Larus minutus)

Common Tern (Sterna hirundo)

Whiskered Tern (Chlidonias hybridus)

Black Tern (Chlidonias niger)

Stock Dove (Columba oenas)

Wood Pigeon (Columba palumbus)

Turtle Dove (Streptopelia turtur)

Collared Dove (Streptopelia decaocto)

Common Cuckoo (Cuculus canorus)

Tawny Owl (Strix aluco)

Ural Owl (Strix uralensis)

Common Swift (Apus apus)

Kingfisher (Alcedo atthis)

Hoopoe (Upupa epops)

Wryneck (Jynx torquilla)

Lesser Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos minor)

Middle Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos medius)

Great Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos major)

Syrian Woodpecker (Dendrocopos syriacus)

Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius)

Grey-headed Woodpecker (Picus canus)

Crested Lark (Galerida cristata)

Skylark (Alauda arvensis)

Sand Martin (Riparia riparia)

Swallow (Hirundo rustica)

House Martin (Delichon urbica)

Tawny Pipit (Anthus campestris)

Tree Pipit (Anthus trivialis)

White Wagtail (Motacilla alba)

Blue-headed Wagtail (Motacilla flava)

Grey-headed Wagtail (Motacilla flava thunbergi)

Grey Wagtail (Motacilla cinerea)

Wren (Troglodytes troglodytes)

Common Nightingale (Luscinia megarhynchos)

White-spotted Bluethroat (Luscinia svecica cyanecula)

Black Redstart (Phoenicurus ochruros)

Whinchat (Saxicola rubetra)

Common Stonechat (Saxicola torquata)

Northern Wheatear (Oenanthe oenanthe)

Blackbird (Turdus merula)

Song Thrush (Turdus philomelos)

Mistle Thrush (Turdus viscivorus)

Savi's Warbler (Locustella luscinioides)

Moustached Warbler (Acrocephalus melanopogon)

Sedge Warbler (Acrocephalus schoenobaenus)

Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus scirpaceus)

Marsh Warbler (Acrocephalus palustris)

Great Reed-warbler (Acrocephalus arundinaceus)

Blackcap (Sylvia atricapilla)

Common Whitethroat (Sylvia communis)

Lesser Whitethroat (Sylvia curruca)

Willow Warbler (Phylloscopus trochilus)

Common Chiffchaff (Phylloscopus collybita)

Wood Warbler (Phylloscopus sibilatrix)

Collared Flycatcher (Ficedula albicollis)

Bearded Tit (Panurus biarmicus)

Long-tailed Tit (Aegithalos caudatus)

Marsh Tit (Parus palustris)

Willow Tit (Parus montanus)

Coal Tit (Parus ater)

Great Tit (Parus major)

Nuthatch (Sitta europaea)

Treecreeper (Certhia familiaris)

Penduline-tit (Remiz pendulinus)

Golden Oriole (Oriolus oriolus)

Lesser Grey Shrike (Lanius minor)

Jay (Garrulus glandarius)

Magpie (Pica pica)

Jackdaw (Corvus monedula)

Rook (Corvus frugilegus)

Hooded Crow (Corvus (corone) cornix)

Common Raven (Corvus corax)

Common Starling (Sturnus vulgaris)

House Sparrow (Passer domesticus)

Tree Sparrow (Passer montanus)

Chaffinch (Fringilla coelebs)

Serin (Serinus serinus)

Greenfinch (Carduelis chloris)

Siskin (Carduelis spinus)

Goldfinch (Carduelis carduelis)

Linnet (Carduelis cannabina)

Hawfinch (Coccothraustes coccothraustes)

Yellowhammer (Emberiza citrinella)

Reed Bunting (Emberiza schoeniclus)

Corn Bunting (Miliaria calandra)